Ingredient · dataset v56
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate and fungal acne
May trigger · Moderate evidence
Why it's a potential trigger
Vitamin C esterified to 2-hexyldecanoic (isopalmitic) acid, a branched C16 fatty acid; Malassezia yeast's ester-cutters free the palmitate-type half, same acid-driven basis as the ruled isocetyl stearate.
Same substance as Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (merged v28); sold under both names.
Evidence strength
Moderate evidence (2/3)
Function
Fatty ester
Fatty esters: split by the yeast’s enzymes into edible fats.
Also listed as
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Products without this ingredient
- Hada Labo Tokyo Skin Plumping Gel Cream
- Kate Somerville EradiKate Acne Treatment (Sulfur 10%, spot)
- CLn 2-in-1 Gentle Wash & Shampoo 8 fl oz
- Simple Water Boost Micellar Facial Gel Wash
- FragFre Hair Styling Gel, Medium Hold, Sensitive Skin 8 fl oz
- NYX Professional Makeup Dewy Finish Long Lasting Setting Spray
Related fatty ester
- Ascorbyl Palmitate — May trigger · Moderate evidence
- Behenyl Acrylate — May trigger · Limited evidence
- Behenyl Behenate — May trigger · Limited evidence
- Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer — May trigger · Moderate evidence
- Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate — No known trigger
- Butyloctyl Salicylate — May trigger · Limited evidence
- C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate — May trigger · Limited evidence
- C14-22 Alcohols — May trigger · Limited evidence
Sources
- Brunke & Hube 2006 — MfLIP1 extracellular lipase hydrolyses Tweens (Microbiology)
- Mayser et al. 1995 — ester hydrolysis depends on alcohol moiety (Acta Derm Venereol)
- EU CosIng database — search the INCI name
Last reviewed: 2026-10-13 (dataset v56).
Questions
Does Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate trigger fungal acne?
We flag it as a potential trigger (moderate evidence). That means it belongs to a class the Malassezia yeast is known to feed on — not that every product with it will cause a flare. Concentration, formulation and individual skin chemistry matter.
Does Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate feed Malassezia?
Yes: we flag Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate as a potential trigger (moderate evidence). It belongs to a class Malassezia is known to feed on — not a claim that every product with it causes a flare. Concentration, formulation and individual skin chemistry matter.
How confident is this call?
Moderate evidence: Vitamin C esterified to 2-hexyldecanoic (isopalmitic) acid, a branched C16 fatty acid; the yeast's ester-cutters free the palmitate-type half, same acid-driven basis as the ruled isocetyl stearate.
Is this medical advice?
No. We screen ingredient lists; we never diagnose, treat, or certify products. When in doubt, ask a dermatologist.
Check a full list containing Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate →
Not medical advice: we screen ingredient lists for potential triggers — we never diagnose, treat, or certify products. Dataset v56.